Ann Lowe: American Courtier, Elizabeth Way and Heather Hodge

Ann Lowe: American Couturier is an elegant and richly illustrated tribute to the trailblazing Black designer whose bespoke gowns—crafted in meticulous silence at her Madison Avenue salon—became the cherished, though often anonymous, symbols of high society. This definitive volume blends sumptuous photography of Lowe’s floral-embellished wedding dresses, sculptural evening gowns and intimate backstage moments with archival fragments, revealing both her exquisite handiwork and the racial barriers she navigated. Essays alongside behind‑the‑scenes preservation stories restore Lowe's legacy, painting a vivid portrait of a creator once described as “society’s best‑kept secret”.

At 208 pages, the book balances visual splendour with scholarly depth: lush detail shots of satin pleats and hand-sewn appliqué unfold across full spreads, while contextual essays frame her practice within the broader narrative of American fashion, identity and race. The result is more than a fashion monograph—it reclaims Lowe’s place in history, celebrating her artistry, resilience and the enduring impact of her designs, including the iconic gown worn by Jackie Kennedy on her wedding day.

About the Author
Elizabeth Way, associate Curator of Costume at FIT’s Museum, orchestrates this recovery of Lowe’s story with archival precision and visual narrative; her expertise shines through this deeply researched volume. 

Heather Hodge, postgraduate Fellow in Textile Conservation at Winterthur.

Laura Mina, textile conservator at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History & Culture.

Katherine Sahmel, conservator at Winterthur.

Katya Roelse, instructor at the University of Delaware.

Margaret Powell, whose pioneering thesis on Lowe was first published in 2012.

Publication date: 2023
Publisher: Rizzoli
Pages: 208
ISBN: 9780847873142